Documentaries from the Pinnacle of Culinary Arts
A culinary memory for the future: Together with food critic Jürgen Dollase, SLUB and TU Dresden have launched a unique series of flavour documentations.
How can flavour be captured? How will we know in 100 years' time what the "Stuffed Breast of Veal", prepared by the kitchen director of the Hotel Bareiss, tasted like, or what complex thoughts three-star chef Torsten Michel had about his culinary creations in the Schwarzwaldstube of the Hotel Traube Tonbach? Creating a culinary memory of the period from 1970 to the present day: This is the aim of the unique series of flavour documentaries from the pinnacle of fine dining in the German Archive of Culinary Arts.
„Der Genuss eines hervorragend zubereiteten Essens ist leider eine flüchtige Angelegenheit. Wir riechen, wir schmecken im Moment. Die Idee von Jürgen Dollase, das flüchtige Ereignis der Degustation und die genaue Zubereitung, die Auswahl der Produkte, den historischen, regionalen und persönlichen Kontext eines Gerichtes präzise zu dokumentieren und damit festzuhalten, hat uns sofort überzeugt“, so Katrin Stump, Generaldirektorin der SLUB Dresden. „Für die deutschlandweit einmalige Sammlung des Deutschen Archivs der Kulinarik sind die Geschmacksdokumentationen eine große Bereicherung."
"How can an experience as complex as a culinary one be "archived" as a cultural event? A recipe alone is not enough to capture the multi-layered influences on the overall culinary experience - but with the taste documentations we are trying to do just that," says Prof. Ursula Staudinger, Rector of the TUD. "Flavour as an important form of aesthetics and sensory integration is an important interdisciplinary research topic for us. We are delighted to be working with the SLUB as an important partner and with one of the leading gastroscopists in Germany, Jürgen Dollase."
Am 23. Oktober 2023 hat Gastronomiekritiker Jürgen Dollase dem Deutschen Archiv der Kulinarik in Dresden im Beisein der Spitzenköche Jan Hartwig***, Claus-Peter Lumpp***, Eric Menchon**, Oliver Steffensky und Michael Sauter die ersten fünf Dokumentationen übergeben, am 28. Oktober 2024 folgten die Köche Marc Haeberlin**, Christian Hümbs, Torsten Michel***, Stefan Neugebauer* und Joachim Wissler**.
They contain detailed step-by-step instructions on how to prepare and serve the culinary creations, tasting notes, comparisons and discussions of examples from national and international cookbooks as well as summarised ratings and classifications. In addition, Jürgen Dollase has conducted in-depth interviews with all the chefs, which also form part of the documentation.
Thanks to the support of the Christian C.D. Ludwig Foundation, high-class culinary creations and dishes typical of their time are thus documented so precisely that their preparation and gustatory perception can also be reconstructed in a comprehensible way by later generations. The inclusion of further flavour documentation in the German Archive of Culinary Art is being planned.
Jürgen Dollase is regarded as one of Germany's most important restaurant critics and has been publishing culinary texts and food reviews since 1999. Born in Oberhausen in 1948, he initially studied art, music and philosophy at the Düsseldorf Art Academy and in Cologne. From 1971 to 1983, he was the leader and keyboardist of the art rock band Wallenstein. It was only at the age of 35 that, with the help of his wife, he turned to fine dining and cooking, which he explored increasingly intensively in the years that followed. His texts in the FAZ (since 1999), Feinschmecker, Kunstzeitung, Port Culinaire, on his blog "Eat-Drink-Think", as well as his essays and books - above all the "Geschmacksschule" - are now standard works of gastronomic criticism, the theory and practice of cooking and eating.
Flavour Documentaries 2024
Marc Haeberlin** (Chef "Auberge de l'Ill" Illhäusern/Alsace): Saumon soufflé
Marc Haeberlin prepares a "Saumon soufflé". Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Illhäusern in July 2019 and July 2024.
Christian Hümbs: Sautéed lettuce with yuzu, parsley and roasted rye
Christian Hümbs prepares the dessert "Acidified lettuce with yuzu, parsley and roasted rye". Documented by Jürgen Dollase in July and August 2024.
Torsten Michel***: Wild hare from the Burgenland in royal style
Torsten Michel prepares a "Wild hare from the Burgenland in royal style (Lièvre à la royale)". Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Baiersbronn in May 2024.
Stefan Neugebauer* (Deidesheimer Hof in Deidesheim/Pfalz): Pfälzer Saumagen
Stefan Neugebauer prepares a Pfälzer Saumagen, documented by Jürgen Dollase in Deidesheim in March 2024.
Joachim Wissler**: Talk about the creative processes in top cuisine since the year 2000
Joachim Wissler, head chef at the "Vendôme" restaurant in the Schlosshotel Bensberg in Bergisch-Gladbach, in conversation with Jürgen Dollase, documented between January and August 2024.
Flavour documentaries 2023
Michael Sauter ("Fischereihafen Restaurant" Hamburg): "Sole Müllerin" style
Michael Sauter prepares a "Seezunge Müllerin" style with brown butter, parsley potatoes and cucumber salad. Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Hamburg in August 2022.
Oliver Steffensky (Hotel Bareiss, Baiersbronn): Stuffed breast of veal "Baden style"
Oliver Steffensky prepares a stuffed breast of veal "Baden style", root vegetables and veal cream sauce. Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Baiersbronn in May 2023.
Eric Menchon**: Breton red mullet grilled on charcoal
Eric Menchon prepares a Breton red mullet grilled on charcoal, served with champagne-fennel sauce and mojito-style lemon gel couscous millet with orange blossom water, horseradish cream and mullet bottarga langoustine mousse, Sicilian caponata, parmesan chip, polenta and ricotta, cider and trout caviar. Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Cologne in May 2023.
Claus-Peter Lumpp*** (Restaurant Bareiss in the Hotel Bareiss, Baiersbronn): Lamb from the Älbler juniper heath in three preparations
Claus-Peter Lumpp prepares a lamb from the Älbler Wacholderheide : Roasted back with poverades, young garlic and tomatoes - Braised lamb belly with garam masala and falafel - Lamb sweetbreads, liver and tongue with parsley puree and white pepper sauce. Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Baiersbronn in May 2023.
Jan Hartwig*** (Restaurant "JAN", Munich): Talk about details, motives and contexts of the book "JAN"
Conversation with Jürgen Dollase about details, motives and contexts of all 76 recipes in the book "JAN" by three-star chef Jan Hartwig, restaurant "JAN" in Munich. The conversations took place between February and July 2023.
How to use our offer
All flavour documentation already included in the German Archive of Culinary Arts is freely accessible digitally on the Qucosa platform.
You can also find them in the SLUB catalogue, DOI 10.25366/2023.213
Please feel free to contact us!
Contact Thomas Stern | Tel.: +49 351 4677-510 Appointment booking via the knowledge bar or: E-Mail
Research assistant Dr Janosch Förster | Phone +49 351 4677-509 E-mail
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