Documentaries from the Pinnacle of Culinary Arts
A culinary memory for the future: Together with food critic Jürgen Dollase, SLUB and TU Dresden have launched a previously unique series of taste documentations.
How can flavour be captured? How will we know in 100 years' time what the "Stuffed Breast of Veal", prepared by the chef de cuisine of the Hotel Bareiss, tasted like, or what complex thoughts three-star chef Jan Hartwig has about his creations? Creating a culinary memory of the period from 1970 to the present day: This is the aim of the unique series of flavour documentaries from the pinnacle of the culinary arts in the German Archive of Cuisine.
"The pleasure of an excellently prepared meal is unfortunately a fleeting affair. We smell, we taste in the moment. Jürgen Dollase's idea of precisely documenting and thus capturing the fleeting event of tasting and the exact preparation, the selection of products, the historical, regional and personal context of a dish convinced us immediately," says Katrin Stump, Director General of the SLUB Dresden.
On 23 October 2023, gastronomy critic Jürgen Dollase presented the first five documentations to the German Archive of Culinary Arts in Dresden in the presence of top chefs Jan Hartwig***, Claus-Peter Lumpp***, Eric Menchon**, Oliver Steffensky and Michael Sauter.
They contain detailed step-by-step instructions on how to prepare and serve the culinary creations, tasting notes, comparisons and discussions of examples from national and international cookbooks as well as summarised ratings and classifications. In addition, Jürgen Dollase has conducted in-depth interviews with all the chefs, which also form part of the documentation.
Thanks to the support of the Christian C.D. Ludwig Foundation, high-class culinary creations and dishes typical of their time are thus documented so precisely that their preparation and gustatory perception can also be reconstructed in a comprehensible way by later generations. The inclusion of further flavour documentation in the German Archive of Culinary Art is being planned.
Jürgen Dollase is regarded as one of Germany's most important restaurant critics and has been publishing culinary texts and food reviews since 1999. Born in Oberhausen in 1948, he initially studied art, music and philosophy at the Düsseldorf Art Academy and in Cologne. From 1971 to 1983, he was the leader and keyboardist of the art rock band Wallenstein. It was only at the age of 35 that, with the help of his wife, he turned to fine dining and cooking, which he explored increasingly intensively in the years that followed. His texts in the FAZ (since 1999), Feinschmecker, Kunstzeitung, Port Culinaire, on his blog "Eat-Drink-Think", as well as his essays and books - above all the "Geschmacksschule" - are now standard works of gastronomic criticism, the theory and practice of cooking and eating.
Michael Sauter ("Fischereihafen Restaurant" Hamburg): "Sole Müllerin" style
Michael Sauter prepares a "Seezunge Müllerin" style with brown butter, parsley potatoes and cucumber salad. Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Hamburg in August 2022.
Oliver Steffensky (Hotel Bareiss, Baiersbronn): Stuffed breast of veal "Baden style"
Oliver Steffensky prepares a stuffed breast of veal "Baden style", root vegetables and veal cream sauce. Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Baiersbronn in May 2023.
Eric Menchon**: Breton red mullet grilled on charcoal
Eric Menchon prepares a Breton red mullet grilled on charcoal, served with champagne-fennel sauce and mojito-style lemon gel couscous millet with orange blossom water, horseradish cream and mullet bottarga langoustine mousse, Sicilian caponata, parmesan chip, polenta and ricotta, cider and trout caviar. Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Cologne in May 2023.
Claus-Peter Lumpp*** (Restaurant Bareiss in the Hotel Bareiss, Baiersbronn): Lamb from the Älbler juniper heath in three preparations
Claus-Peter Lumpp prepares a lamb from the Älbler Wacholderheide : Roasted back with poverades, young garlic and tomatoes - Braised lamb belly with garam masala and falafel - Lamb sweetbreads, liver and tongue with parsley puree and white pepper sauce. Documented by Jürgen Dollase in Baiersbronn in May 2023.
Jan Hartwig*** (Restaurant "JAN", Munich): Talk about details, motives and contexts of the book "JAN"
Conversation with Jürgen Dollase about details, motives and contexts of all 76 recipes in the book "JAN" by three-star chef Jan Hartwig, restaurant "JAN" in Munich. The conversations took place between February and July 2023.
How to use our offer
All flavour documentation already included in the German Archive of Culinary Arts is freely accessible digitally on the Qucosa platform.
You can also find them in the SLUB catalogue, DOI 10.25366/2023.213
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